All That Glitters: Diamonds and Gold in Korea

Jetta Allen
May 1, 2024
5 min read

Woman in white suit, displaying jewelry with hands. Background is bright and minimal. Mood is elegant and contemplative. Photo courtesy of Aldo

Carol Channing’s hit song “Diamonds are a Girl’s Best Friend” set the tone for years of marketing jewelry that is expertly crafted to make women feel beautiful, maybe even as beautiful as Marylin Monroe herself. 75 years later the jewelry industry is over a 334 billion dollar industry and it is no longer just for women. Now the market covers so many demographics, targeting ads to diverse populations with a wide range of ages, and offering jewelry tailored to every occasion. Korea is no stranger to the glitz and glam of jewelry made of gold, silver, gemstones, shells, and my favorite diamonds!

In downtown Seoul, the Jongno Jewelry District will fulfill all your jewelry desires. Shops line the streets and alleys for 3 miles tempting people to take a peek through the windows. No matter your preference, yellow or white gold, silver, or platinum, you can find something special for you in the district! The Mirae Jewelry Institute of Korea is also located in the Jongno Jewelry District. Here leaders in the field teach classes for jewelers to become certified through the International Gemological Institute. The complex also has classes for the novice jewelry makers where you can make anything from a simple band to one with a stone in a setting. In the Jongno Jewelry District you can find just about anything.

Unknown to many in the military company, there is a unique store in the district, one that is a leader in its field, KDT Diamond.

For 37 years KDT Diamond has been leading the way as being Korea’s largest diamond company but also by being the first company in the country to create a lab grown diamond. Lab grown diamonds are more than just a growing trend, they are an eco-conscious approach to jewelry. By choosing a lab grown diamond, there is less impact on the natural environment including deforestation, pollution to air and ground water, noise, workplace injuries, and the darker side of diamond production. As consumers begin to take a closer look at where their products come from, the focus on exploitation, child labor, terrible working conditions, and poor wages changes the industry. Movies like Leonardo DiCaprio’s

“Blood Diamond” made a global impact making consumers consider more eco-conscious practices and sustainable jewelry production.

This is the new frontier and KDT Diamonds is leading Korea to a brighter tomorrow, literally!

The image displays the word "ALOD" in bold black text against a plain white background.

Their lab grown diamonds sparkle like a star! KDT Diamonds knew this and their new branding spoke to the same, ALOD: All Light in One Dot. ALOD is a branch off company of KDT Diamonds. Their goal, create beauty jewelry with an eye for craftsmanship, detail, and high quality lab grown diamonds. In our interview we found that branding is an important part of the future of their market. As other diamond and fashion companies around the world feature lab grown diamonds, the time is now to make ALOD and KDT Diamonds a household name.

Three people work at desks in a cluttered workshop with tools and supplies. The setting is well-lit and organized, creating a focused atmosphere.

We took a tour of the ALOD facility and learned how diamonds are grown in a lab. A diamond seed is placed into a patented machine called a “CVD Device” with a diamond seed to create diamond synthesis. A one carat diamond can take anywhere from 400-500 hours to grow.

From a diamond seed to a diamond in a setting on someone’s finger, there are 4 to 5 people involved in the process.

Two jewelers work at a bench with tools under bright lights. A sign reads "Maruti Enterprise." The setting is a well-lit workshop.

The tour took us on a personal journey through production including where artisans handcraft each setting with wax castings and melting metals like gold and silver into rings, earrings, and a variety of settings. These craftsmen go through months of training to learn how to create jewelry with a focus on quality and design. The next area we toured was the planning area. We watched as the planner put a rough diamond into a GemCad. This

Person in a striped shirt operates a KDT Diamond machine, monitoring on-screen data. The setting is industrial with a focused atmosphere.

complicated machine is a computer-aided design machine that shows the different cuts and sizes possible for the rough diamond, finding the most effective way to get as many cuts from the rough. The machine will print a set of numbers and the rough diamond is then moved to a laser cutter. The numbers are scanned and the laser begins the magic of

turning a stone to the beginning stages of a piece of jewelry based on the dimensions from the GemCad! Planners are indispensable. These skilled craftsmen from India literally plan each and every cut and facet on the diamonds. They turn a cut stone into a faceted jewel by painstakingly cutting each facet by hand. Another machine will measure those hand cut facets and after quite a bit of math later, the planners will know if more precise cuts are needed or if it’s ready for polishing!! Once it is polished, it is ready to be set into a piece of jewelry and look spectacular!

Two jewelers work meticulously at a cluttered workbench under bright lamps. The room is filled with tools and materials, creating a focused mood.

According to ALOD, “the production process of lab diamonds combines cutting-edge technology and cutting-edge science”. There is chemically no difference in a natural diamond versus a lab grown diamond, but there is a price difference. As the size of diamonds increases, the price cap gets wider and wider making lab grown diamonds cost efficient over natural diamonds for those looking to get the most bang for their buck! This price decrease is partly due to a decreased cost in shipping and export resulting in an increased profit margin as well! Many use diamonds as an investment, as the sliding scale for gold and silver changes quite rapidly, diamonds are a more stable choice. The investment value of lab grown diamonds is still being determined, but I personally feel that with this market knows no bounds!

The online store for ALOD offers consumers an inside look to the beauty of a lab grown diamond. The Korean market prefers to purchase “final product” jewelry, items ready to purchase and leave with the same day. For those wanting to visit ALOD, on the weekdays

stores have translators. On the weekend, try coming with a friend who speaks Korean or contacting the company in advance by email to ensure a translator is present to meet your needs.

Person wearing gloves and a mask works on machinery inside a glass-enclosed workspace. Tools hang on the wall in a workshop setting.

The jewelry cases at ALOD are filled with all the jewelry you can imagine. From rings, necklaces, stud and hoop earrings, and brooches to special pieces shaped like hearts and butterflies, there is something for everyone! The lifestyle section of ALOD offers more than just jewelry too! There are elegant teaspoon sets and even accessories for golfers!

ALOD also offers customization with a unique jewelry design experience for customers wanting something a little more unique! When customizing jewelry with in stock diamonds, jewelry takes an estimated 2 weeks to complete.

For custom, lab grown diamonds, it can take up to 5-6 weeks depending on the size of the carat, color, cut, clarity, and setting of your custom piece. ALOD creates luxurious diamonds in a variety of colors, so an in person store experience would be best. You have to see the sparkle to really understand how spectacular these diamonds are and why you should own an ALOD!

People in a jewelry store converse around glass display cases with watches, set in a modern interior. Neutral tones and overhead lighting.

The field of lab grown diamonds is growing. Creativity in design, craftsmanship, and innovations in technology are daily impacting the jewelry industry. In 10 years ALOD aims to have stores on the east and west coast of the United States and other international locations.